Chain Drug Review, March 16th, 2020

BEAUTY CARE REPORT Cosmetics industry morphs as no makeup look trends NEW YORK The mass market makeup business continues to struggle the victim of a movement to no makeup looks as well as shopper migration to online or specialty stores But there is hope as pointed out by Larissa Jensen NPD Group Inc s vice president and industry advisor who is putting her money down on a return to makeup but not until 2021 If history repeats itself we are looking at a rebound in the category sometime around 2021 give or take a year Jensen COSMETICS wrote on NPDs blog In particular she indicates there is potential in the natural makeup space which is still very small Jensen says the next makeup revolution may be more about natural looks than the heavy contour craze that helped nudge sales two years ago That shift comes as social media content providers are posting more natural and authentic posts versus picture perfect She also says there might be categories out there we dont even think about or know about Natural formulas will add sales along with more sustainable packaging But with that comes balance Consumers need to know the facts about products that run the risk of depleting natural resources Natural in and of itself could be depleting some of the resources of the planet Jensen says Sustainability concerns are likely to run the gamut from packaging to ingredients she noted There are many ways to get tied up in it you could have sustainable packaging but an ingredient might not be sustainable Jensen said In the meantime there are efforts to get the category in gear Ironically says Monica Arnaud chief merchandising officer at Ulta Beauty the no makeup trend actually requires not only skin care but makeup that helps create a natural look She sees ample opportunity in makeup that helps achieve that look Makeup brands are also upping their game E l f Cosmetics just purchased W3LL People which will help e l f learn about the clean beauty segment Clean beauty is a strategically important segment given consumer sentiment and strong growth rates W3LL People has a long history of expertise and credibility in clean beauty that works Their brand values and market opportunity align closely with e l f s strategy and we believe there are a number of synergies to be realized on both the cost and distribution fronts says e l f chairman and chief executive officer Tarang Amin Revlon debuted a line that has the EWG Environmental Working Group approval a move that shows it is committed to cleaner formulas More mass brands are moving toward vegan and clean formulas There are also companies tinkering with CBD and hemp At this point however it is hard to find a category hitting on all cylinders Even the once hotter than hot eyebrow category is slowing according to IRI figures for the 12 weeks ended January 26 in mass doors In eye one positive is mascara which is a staple of mass and had been flat over the past two years The uptick is related buyers say to new technology products that mimic lash extensions Among those singled out were LOréal Voluminous Lash Paradise Washable Mascara and No7 Stay Perfect Retailers are excited about a launch from Kiss Products called Falscara that is a new way to apply artificial lashes under natural ones rather than above In lips heavy lipstick looks are giving way to gloss with sales rocketing almost 15 which retailers attribute to the natural makeup look And if there ever was a glimmer of light in the mass category it is in the nail category For the first time in more than five years sales are starting to grow and they exhibit a 45 gain Thats huge news for a category that is so crucial in mass doors Artificial nails still drive the gains up 21 but nail polish is edging closer to moving into the plus ledger Sally Hansen is expected to give the category a real boost with a new naturally positioned launch Dashing Diva is bringing out a new form of artificial manicure and Kiss keeps stoking the fire with its on trend artificial options Clean beauty is an important segment On the indie front brands such as Makeup Revolution Juvias Place Peripera and Essence are gaining footage as mass marketers look to entice younger shoppers while giving smaller brands the chance to get exposed to new lines CVS Pharmacy devotes an entire wall to up and comers Also Target just announced indie pacesetter Winky Lux is going into 1844 stores with 68 items Mass brands are tapping into prestige technology to offer similar items at value prices No7 for example just unveiled its Protect and Perfect Advanced All in One Foundation with SPF 50 It is a mass market answer to the popular hybrid makeup and skin care brands like First Aid Beauty and IT Cosmetics that are selling well in the specialty market Hard Candy the Walmart exclusive is totally revamping the line to keep up with shoppers brisk changing makeup demands There are 80 new products including a collaboration starring Marilyn Monroe and her favorite ingredients rose and strawberry Retailers hope the renewed activity will get cosmetics sales back on track Executives make moves all around the cosmetics world NEW YORK The new year has brought a fresh round of executive changes Most recently Coty Inc tapped Jimmy Choo chief executive officer Pierre Denis as its new CEO He replaces Pierre Laubies who assumed that title in November 2018 the third CEO at Coty in three years Also Pierre André Térisse chief financial officer of Coty will add the role of chief operating officer Isabelle Parize and Justine Tan have been named nonexecutive directors of the Coty board Pierre Denis brings a wealth of cosmetics and luxury experience in developed and developing markets including in Asia and I have admired his work for many years chairman Peter Harf said Pierre will work closely with Pierre André Térisse who intimately knows the companys operations and finances to ensure that Coty is well positioned to capture myriad growth opportunities and accelerate top line performance Beauty by Imagination which counts WetBrush and Goody Products in its portfolio has hired Tina Jackse as executive vice president of consumer sales for North America She brings over 20 years of experience most recently she was vice president of sales at Henkel Corp Late last year Tara Simon left her post as senior vice president of merchandising for prestige at Ulta Beauty The retailer promoted Monica Arnaudo formerly with the same title overseeing mass to chief merchandising officer over all beauty areas Shelley Haus was promoted to chief marketing officer leading all brandbuilding and consumer initiatives and Prama Bhatt was promoted to chief digital officer overseeing digital and e commerce Dashing Diva enters the retail nail market NEW YORK Dashing Diva is ushering in a whole new option in the nail care business The company which started out with branded salons selling its own products has harnessed more than 30 years of experience to bring a new type of temporary nail product to market The products give the look of a gel manicure The timing couldnt be better as the mass nail category is showing the most growth potential in years Offered in several major chains including Target Corp is a new concept Gloss Ultra Shine Gel Strips The gloss strips have been road tested internationally and on off shelf displays in major U S chains with great success turning substantially faster than not only traditional nail items but cosmetics in general The gloss products give the look of a gel manicure that will last for 14 days according to Margaret Pak executive vice president of sales and marketing for Dashing Diva What differentiates the Gloss Ultra Shine Gel Strips from other artificial nails is they are best merchandised with polish rather than artificial nails thus bringing new excitement and return on investment to the lacquer business While Dashing Diva started as a salon franchise business and evolved into professional salon distribution weve always felt our place was in consumer retail says Pak The Gloss Ultra Shine Gel Strips combine base colors on one side and on trend accents on the other There is ample opportunity to build sales around events adds Pak such as holidays like St Patricks Day In the pipeline she even sees potential to add in store gel application services And the company can create exclusive designs for retailers so there are chain exclusives Nail is also expected to get a boost from ongoing innovation from Kiss Products and more natural polishes including those from Sally Hansen and indies like Tenoverten 40 Chain Drug Review March 16 2020